Fresh for your listening ears on the way to your next surf check, this video features a deep conversation between Darrick Doerner and Instinct Surf Founder Shaun Tomson.
Recorded on the North Shore of Oahu, they reflect on the "Golden Age" of surfing, the evolution of surfboard design, and how the ocean serves as a metaphor for life.
The best part? Surprise guests include Barton Lynch, Randy Rarrick, Buzzy Kerbox, Cheyne Horan, and Tommy Nellis
Press Play Now to Explore:
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The "Pink Banana" and Board Evolution: Shaun tells the story of his famous "Pink Banana" surfboard, a revolutionary design with an accidental 7.75 inches of rocker created by shaper Spider Murphy [17:03]. Despite its unusual pink color (a resin mistake) and extreme bend, it became a "lifesaver" that allowed Shaun to survive and win the Pipeline Masters [21:24].
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The Transition of Eras: Shaun recounts a defining moment at "Off the Wall" in 1977 when he shared a barrel with Mark Richards (MR). He describes this single wave as the "end of the single-fin era and the beginning of the twin-fin era"—the moment the "age of acceleration" began [31:34].
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Surfing History and Respect: The legends discuss the strict "pecking order" of the 1970s and 80s, emphasizing the deep respect required to surf spots like Pipeline and Sunset Beach [12:43]. They also share personal stories about heroes like Eddie Aikau and the Kahanamoku family [03:30].
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"The Surfer’s Code": Shaun explains how his personal tragedy—the loss of his son—led him to write The Surfer's Code. This "code" consists of 12 life lessons learned from the ocean, such as "I will never turn my back on the ocean" and "I will always paddle back out" [08:12].
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Global Impact: Shaun shares how he now uses these surfing values to help others find hope and purpose, lecturing everywhere from rehabilitation centers and prisons to the Harvard Kennedy School [44:08].
Listen now for Shaun's thoughts on the "connectivity" of surfing and the promise it offers in an increasingly divided world where the values of the surfing tribe —perseverance, courage, and hope — can bring people together and provide a framework for positive decision-making [48:58].